Wednesday, September 12, 2018

anonymity - "without a name" (part 1, Lilongwe)


Anonymity, adjective "anonymous", is derived from the Greek word ἀνωνυμία, anonymia, meaning "without a name" or "namelessness".

A stark difference between Lilongwe and Warsaw is the reality of sticking out vs. fitting in. In my mind, there are two lenses that I see this through: race (including all the privilege, stereotypes, baggage, etc. that comes with it) and language (also a real possibility that plenty of privilege, stereotypes, and baggage come with it as well).

In Lilongwe, it was not uncommon to find yourself in the market, on the street, anywhere really, and be the only white face (peach face? pink face? useful to contemplate a broader conversation about the words used to describe race that generally mirror a light vs. dark dichotomy, but perhaps another time...) amid many black and brown faces. The well-trodden path of the white person in Africa, without a doubt. Of course, in the sometime (much of the time?) “expat bubble” (another conversation for another time – framing someone as an expat vs. immigrant) we found ourselves in that was not always the case and was exactly opposite with virtually all white faces, but anyhow.

For some it was intoxicating, like a drug; someone described it to me as feeling like they were "famous" when he felt like he was noticed by Malawian women on a regular basis (I should attempt to be less judgmental about the stunning lack of awareness this perspective takes considering the socio-economic disparity at play in that scenario, but...). This goes hand in hand with the power dynamic that comes with being the "mzungu" in Malawi, an unearned deference when many always consider you "bwana" (boss). There is more to be written on the personality of the people of Malawi, and the certain tranquility and deference that is seen generally there, but in any event this generally racial power dynamic can also lend itself to a strange juxtaposition: making some feel powerful and self-important even though it’s not deserved (definitely a vestige of colonialism, neo-colonialism, the continued importance put on development money and aid workers, etc.) and others who expected (more, or at least some, in any case) attitude or resentment that would assumingly come with being the shared race of a former colonizer and/or the race of the perpetual exploiter.

This also fits right in with not forgetting that in Malawi one luxury (for someone from the U.S. or other English speaking countries who is for all practical purposes monolingual) is that English is the official government language, and despite any argument that this vestige of colonialism is harmful to the most vulnerable (poorest, least educated, most rural, etc.) by limiting access to government services and the courts, it is part of the historical narrative of being a former British colony (and Portuguese prior to that) and the educated and elite of this particular place (and many like it) having incentive to keep English as the official language...  Most places you go, definitely in Lilongwe, people speak at the least a fair amount of English and most of the time excellent English - to my later point about feeling anxiety and tension, for me it took the edge off feeling out of place, that’s for sure.

Maybe always sticking out simply due to race does bring with it a certain “namelessness.” You are not always seen for who you are, but instead are a caricature of what you look like instead? I’ve certainly witnessed people gravitating toward this anonymity of simply being another white bwana (and fwiw, in Malawi there are also plenty of stereotypes about Asian bwanas acting malicious, in some cases worse that mzungu bwanas, but I digress), acting belligerent toward Malawians, due to the power dynamics at play. I wouldn’t be honest if I didn’t admit that I found myself in situations where I lost my cool, my temper, and acted in a way toward people (that happened to be brown skinned Malawians) that I am ashamed about. Why did I get away with it to myself or others, or where did my subconscious allow me to go in that direction in the first place? (in a word, or two - privilege, man)

For many, always sticking out brings a certain underlying tension or anxiety to it- of course, right? It is virtually impossible to feel anonymous or that you just fit in when you are always "different." In the context of the current political push against immigrants in the U.S. or Europe, for instance, can you imagine having that anxiety and tension and instead of possessing a racial power dynamic being subjected to the prejudices and biases of being a person of color? That doesn’t even consider that this anxiety and tension is virtually assured to be compounded by being far from home, with many in stressful or emergency circumstances, in many cases not having the finances to allow for easy transition, maybe not understanding the culture or the language, and hearing that people don’t want you there to begin with or that you come from a “shithole” country (unless you’re from Norway, of course). Throw in the stress that comes with trying to assimilate to a new place with taking care of children, or older relatives, perhaps, and I think it’s safe to say we don’t adequately empathize with people coming to our countries trying to establish and safe and meaningful life for themselves. Running from war. Running from poverty. Running from hopelessness. Running from oppression or persecution. Coming to a place that is supposed to provide hope, and opportunity, and safety.

We should be better. Diatribe over.

Next time: anonymity - "without a name" (part 2, Warsaw)

Thursday, August 16, 2018

An American Werewolf in Warsaw (there's something we've been meaning to tell you about Charlie...)

Despite the title to this carefully curated and regularly updated blog, we've just made the move to Warsaw! Poland, not Indiana!

And since the last blog post in December of 2016, Charlie was born in Malawi! And we made a summer, and Christmas trip back to the U.S.! And we took a trip to Zambia to safari at South Luangwa National Park! And Kate took a job at the American School of Warsaw! And took a 17 hour flight with a toddler and a dog! And we just spent 6 weeks back in the U.S. spending time with family and preparing for the next big move!

Maybe more on those in the future? Definitely more exclamation points. In the big picture, it's hard to overstate how much Malawi has changed our life, our family, our future. I had always planned on writing more while we were there, more regularly keeping a journal, taking notes on the day to day interactions and reflections, like a real writer could, would, should. Priorities are made, strategies are shifted, and maybe now I will convince myself that our time in our little corner of SE Africa will best be written about with time and reflection. Four years anywhere, doing anything, is a chapter worth memorializing, and when you have the opportunity to spend it in a place that is exotic for most, fascinating and romantic for many, challenging for some, it's going to be a goal of mine to truly reflect back and get some of those thoughts on paper.

For now, though? We've been in Warsaw for 17 days, the first 10 in a single room in a hotel with a crib at the foot of our bed and a 19 month old who definitely wanted to be up from midnight to 4am most mornings cause, jet lag. Like a little werewolf. See what I did there? That doesn't even acknowledge that our toddler is currently into trying to take bites out of our arms, or legs, or necks, or whatever piece of flesh she can get her toothy little mouth on.

10 days in, we moved into our permanent housing, a lovely third floor flat in Old Wilanow. Lots of changes, plenty of mini-brain meltdowns staring at 6 kinds of cleaning spray for 10 minutes and realizing that google translate will only get you so far. We've, generally, figured out the bus system, taken full advantage of Uber, not gone hungry, totally kicking butt, really.

The easiest thing to say or think is that Warsaw is "a different world" than Lilongwe. Just like that was the easiest thing to think or say about Lilongwe compared to Louisville when we first moved there. But it's not, it's the same world, just different places on the map, and remembering that and keeping the privilege of our travels in context, and putting all of the experiences together while focusing on the now and being in the moment, well, that's the rub, right? We're happy to be here, excited to meet new people, conquer new challenges, raise our daughter, live life, all while missing friends, missing the peace and tranquility of our little spot in Lilongwe. The next chapter.